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Retirement

How Much Should I Save for Retirement Each Month?

Turning a distant target into a monthly number you can actually act on.

Published 27 August 2026 · Updated 27 August 2026

"How much should I save for retirement each month?" is the version of the retirement question that can actually be acted on. A corpus target of several crore is abstract; a figure you can set up as a standing instruction this week is not. But the monthly number cannot be produced directly. It falls out of a target, and the target has to come first.

So the sequence is: work out what your retirement costs, subtract what you have already built, and solve for the monthly contribution that closes the difference in the years you have left.

Step one: the target, not a round number

The corpus you need is whatever capital can fund your expenses — rising every year — for as long as your retirement lasts. That depends on today's spending, the inflation applied to it between now and retirement, how long the money has to last, and what it earns while being withdrawn. Our retirement corpus calculator runs that month by month, and the longer guide to the target works through each input in turn.

Inflation is where the number gets uncomfortable. India's flexible inflation targeting framework sets a 4% CPI target with a 2%–6% tolerance band, and the government renotified exactly that target for the five years to March 2031. Headline CPI has been running near the middle of that band recently — 4.45% in July 2026. Many planners still use a higher figure for household budgets specifically, often around 6%, on the reasoning that the basket a family actually buys, healthcare in particular, has tended to outrun the headline index.

Take a 35-year-old spending ₹60,000 a month today, planning to stop work at 60 and to fund 30 years after that. At 6% inflation, that ₹60,000 budget costs roughly ₹2.58 lakh a month by the time it starts. Funding that stream for 30 years, with the withdrawal rising 6% a year and the balance earning 8%, needs a corpus in the region of ₹6.7 crore. That is the target. Everything below is arithmetic performed on it.

Step two: subtract what is already working

Most people are further along than they assume, because they count only what they think of as "investments." Your EPF balance is retirement money compounding at whatever rate EPFO declares — 8.25% for FY 2025-26, held there for a third consecutive year. Any NPS corpus, PPF balance, existing mutual fund units and even the retirement-earmarked portion of a property all belong in the same column.

What matters is not today's value of those assets but their value at retirement, because they compound without you adding anything further. ₹20 lakh already invested, growing at 11% for 25 years, becomes roughly ₹2.7 crore on its own. Against a ₹6.7 crore target, that leaves about ₹3.9 crore to be built with new money — a materially different problem from the one you started with.

Step three: solve for the monthly figure

Now the question is well-posed: what monthly investment, compounding at an assumed rate over the remaining years, reaches the outstanding amount? Our SIP calculator answers this, and the sensitivity of the result to the return assumption is worth seeing for yourself.

For the full ₹6.7 crore target over 25 years, ignoring existing savings, the required flat monthly amount is roughly ₹50,000 at a 10% return, ₹42,000 at 11%, and ₹35,000 at 12%. That spread — a fifth of the monthly commitment turning on two percentage points of assumed return — is the single most important thing to understand about any projection of this kind. Nobody knows which of those returns will materialise. Historical averages describe the past and are not a forecast, which is precisely why running the calculation at more than one rate is more informative than running it at your favourite one.

With the ₹20 lakh already invested doing its own work, the same target at 11% needs about ₹25,000 a month of new money rather than ₹42,000. Same person, same goal, very different monthly commitment — purely because the existing corpus was counted.

The step-up is the lever people underuse

A flat monthly amount held constant for 25 years is a strange assumption. Almost nobody's income is flat for 25 years, and inflation quietly shrinks a fixed contribution in real terms every single year.

Increasing the amount annually changes the picture dramatically. Reaching the same ₹6.7 crore at an 11% return needs about ₹42,000 a month if the amount never changes — or about ₹29,000 to start if it rises 5% a year, or roughly ₹18,000 to start if it rises 10% a year. The total money invested across the period is not wildly different in each case. What differs is when the burden lands: a step-up shifts it towards years in which your income is, for most careers, considerably higher than it is now. If a plan currently looks unaffordable in year one, this is usually the first input worth revisiting.

What waiting costs

The years themselves do more work than the monthly figure does, and the effect is not linear. In the same example, starting the ₹6.7 crore plan five years later — 20 years to run instead of 25, at the same 11% return — pushes the required flat monthly amount from about ₹42,000 to roughly ₹77,000. Five years of delay nearly doubles the monthly cost, because the contributions you skipped were the ones with the longest runway to compound.

The practical implication is the opposite of what it might seem. If the calculated figure is out of reach today, waiting until it is affordable makes it less affordable, not more. Starting with a smaller amount and raising it as income allows keeps the compounding clock running, which is the part that cannot be bought back later.

Where tax fits in

Tax treatment affects how much of each rupee actually reaches the corpus and how much survives withdrawal, so it belongs in the picture — but as a secondary consideration, not the organising principle. The broad position as of this writing is that the new tax regime removes most of the deductions people historically associated with retirement saving, including Section 80C and the additional NPS deduction under 80CCD(1B), while employer NPS contributions under 80CCD(2) remain available; the old regime retains the older set. Rules in this area have changed repeatedly in recent years, and the right choice depends entirely on your own income and deductions, so confirm the current position before relying on any of it.

The reason to keep tax in second place is simply proportion. Choosing a savings vehicle for its deduction while contributing an amount that falls well short of the target optimises a small variable and leaves the large one untouched.

What the number is actually for

A monthly retirement figure is not a verdict on whether you are doing well. It is a measurement of the gap between a plan and a target, expressed in the only unit you can act on. If it comes out uncomfortably large, that is usually the inflation arithmetic being honest rather than the calculation being wrong, and the response is to work the four levers — amount, annual increase, years, and expected expenses in retirement — one at a time until the plan and the target meet somewhere you can actually live with.

Then check it again next year, because every input in it will have moved.

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Frequently asked questions

Is there a percentage of salary I can just use instead?

Rules like "save 15% of income" are conversation starters, not plans. They ignore the two variables that dominate the answer — how many years you have left before retiring, and how far your current savings have already got you. Someone starting at 28 and someone starting at 45 need very different percentages to reach the same place, and no single figure can be right for both. A percentage rule is useful only as a sanity check against a number you calculated properly.

Does my EPF contribution count towards this?

Yes, and leaving it out is one of the most common ways people overstate what they still need to invest. Your own EPF contribution and the portion of your employer's that goes to EPF are both retirement savings compounding at the rate EPFO declares each year — 8.25% for FY 2025-26, unchanged for the third year running. Any NPS balance, an existing PPF corpus and old mutual fund holdings count too. The correct way to use them is to project what they will be worth at retirement, subtract that from the target, and size the monthly investment against whatever gap remains.

What return should I assume when working out the monthly number?

There is no correct answer, only a range of defensible ones, and the honest approach is to run more than one. Past returns from any asset class are a record of what happened, not a forecast of what will happen, and a projection built on the best decade in market history is not a plan. Running the same target at a conservative return and an optimistic one shows you the width of the uncertainty, which is more useful than a single confident-looking figure.

What does an annual step-up actually do to the number?

More than almost any other lever. Increasing the monthly amount by a set percentage each year — roughly in line with your own income growth — front-loads far less of the burden onto your present self. In the worked example on this page, the flat monthly figure of about ₹42,000 falls to roughly ₹18,000 if the amount rises 10% a year instead. The total invested over the period is not dramatically different; what changes is that the larger contributions arrive in later years when, for most people, they are easier to afford.

What if I genuinely cannot afford the number the calculation produces?

That is common, and it is information rather than failure. The arithmetic has four levers: invest more each month, increase the amount every year rather than leaving it flat, extend the number of working years, or plan for lower expenses in retirement. Each has a measurable effect that you can see by changing one input at a time. Starting with an amount you can sustain — and raising it — puts more years of compounding behind you than waiting until you can afford the full figure.

Do I need to redo this calculation every year?

An annual review is reasonable, because the inputs move. Your income changes, your expenses change, the corpus you have already built is either ahead of or behind where the projection expected it to be, and long-run inflation assumptions get revised. A plan set once at 32 and never revisited is running on a picture of your life that has since stopped being accurate.